These 4 of your favorite American fashion houses are dominated by foreign immigrants.

New York, USA - What does an "American" fashion company mean? The designers of the four most popular but challenging American fashion companies are now struggling to find the answer to this question. What they have in common is not the design method, but the development trajectory, that is, how they will eventually arrive in New York at their own pace as “foreigners”—especially in the current political climate. To infuse the most prestigious fashion brands in the United States, the burden falls on a Belgian, a Korean-Canadian and Dominican duo, an Englishman and a Scot. This in itself emphasizes the status of the US “immigrant power”. They will also integrate their methods of conduct, tastes and habits with the local community and eventually define themselves. How do they transform these most famous American fashion companies?

Ravin Simons of Calvin Klein: "Sew out" New American Story

Belgian designer Raf Simons, who has been appointed as the new "Chief Creative Officer" by American fashion giant Calvin Klein in August 2016, has always dominated the headlines of fashion media. Simons, who is now moving to New York, is committed to improving the brand's ready-to-wear business. His early results in the 2017 autumn and winter collections, the prospects are quite bright: he looks at the United States with an amazing European outsider's perspective: cowboy boots, suit shirts, circle quilted jackets spurt between editors and buyers (coming soon The number of retailers in the series has increased tenfold).

The collection of denim pieces is largely inspired by Helmut Lang, the European designer who also captured New York in the thunder. “I always learn what I am going to do very quickly,” Simons said at the Raf Simons brand launch conference in New York Fashion Week (Men's) in February this year. “I only saw the city. With such incredible energy, the streets here have incredible freedom."

But the design release fashion collection is just the tip of the iceberg of Simons's multi-layered, multi-billion dollar empire in Calvin Klein, which has a strong marketing palette for underwear, fragrance and denim sales. Received. This is a new direction for Simons, who tends to focus on cultural content (he put the model in front of contemporary art paintings in his first brand of cowboy advertising). Also under his direction, the launch of the perfect men's underwear ad introduced the "Moonlight" card, won the Oscar of the Year's Best Film Award on the eve of the official release of the advertisement, suggesting that he may not have a body in his body. The soul of a salesman.

Diane Von Furstenberg's Jonathan Saunders: Redoing Classic Brands

Last year, Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders moved to New York after shutting down the eponymous brand, and brought a new life to Diane von Furstenberg, the brand created by the most famous people in the fashion industry (and acronyms).

Managing the brand of the same name has always been a lot of trouble. For Saunders, von Furstenberg's status as a former European princess and now an American feminist entrepreneur makes this job even more difficult. But since he became the first chief creative officer in DVF's history, he has successfully injected his personal spirit into the brand and brought the brand's image to wait for a long time to modernize (and a simple new logo), emphasizing the two colors, prints and sports styles. mutual hobby.

The first series of Saunders's brand's spring/summer 2017 collection features a low-key static release form, featuring a series of scarves and print collage silk crepe Dresses and wide-leg creases. In the fall/winter 2017 collection, Saunders combines evening wear fabrics with daywear textures. But the company's internal suspicion is also deepening: last November, von Furstenberg called "the heirs" who will lead the company's development in the "decades", company CEO Paolo Riva retired; Saunders pointed out that von Furstenberg The personality of the light conceals the product, and there is a risk.

“It’s really hard to have an outsider’s identity and a broader understanding of the brand culture,” Saunders said. “Diane has always had the scent of combining pragmatism with creativity. This is the true American philosophy and sensibility. But what makes the Diane von Furstenberg brand unique is that its pragmatic concept has a direct conversion to the concept of 'sportswear' for many American brands. Diane von Furstenberg is a true fashion brand that looks at the world with fashion."

Coach's Stuart Vevers: Let the American youth romantic

Skateboarding, rockabilly, street... For the Englishman Stuart Vevers, who was the creative director of Coach in 2013, there is no “niche” youth culture that he doesn't want to explore. He picked up the first American film, television shows and music that was first contacted in South Yorkshire in the industrial area of ​​northern England, and filtered these reference points. For example, in the Fall/Winter 2017 collection, he turned his attention to two summative films that were revisited from time to time - the American director Terrence Malick's Badlands and Days of Heaven. Heaven's dusty dry pastures and the successful cross-distribution of the 1980 hip-hop culture.

“I really like the problems I explore at Coach, including 'What is a luxury brand in the United States,'” Vevers said before the opening ceremony in February this year, “As a concept to make real excavations. Yes, this means Being relaxed means introducing American style and cool points. But Coach is more about 'making' and related to craftsmanship."

After several quarters of sales decline, Vevers' success in Coach's tenure. Not only did he become the best performing category in the fashion house that has relied on handbags for profit in 76 years, but also successfully awarded the brand “Pop Culture Relevance”. . His cartoon dinosaur Rexy has transformed from the original water-testing fresh pattern to a brand identity that is almost as recognizable as the Coach classic carriage logo.

Oscar de la Renta's design portfolio Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia: Respect for brand heritage

In many ways, Oscar de la Renta is a typical American fashion company; but at the same time, the late brand founder Oscar de la Renta was also an old European studio for the design studio. It also reflects his experience working and learning from the respected celebrity design master Cristóbal Balenciaga.

The newly succeeded designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, as well as Mr. de la Renta, who was born in the Dominican Republic, chose to come to the United States to settle down. Korean Canadian Kim and Dominican Garcia have worked in Oscar de la Renta for 12 and 6 years respectively, and said that the brand's founding designer and the brand's most "American" thing is his own entrepreneurial spirit.

Kim and Garcia are very similar. After leaving Oscar de la Renta, the two started their own brand Monse and quickly gained important commercial success. In less than two years, Alex Bolen, CEO of Oscar de la Renta, not only re-employed Kim and Garcia as co-creative directors to return to the brand, but also promised to financially support the Monse brand. “Where is there a place where you can create a brand and see results so quickly?” Garcia said, “Nothing. Nowhere else we can do both Monse and ODLR.”

The designer duo is also committed to respecting Mr. de la Renta's own aesthetic vision and bringing a modern and modern temperament to the collection. Their first catwalk series was a great success in some areas (especially color selection and silhouette), but there were also failures (such as fits). Another problem is that, despite their full fighting spirit, does the duo really fulfill this challenge – while reinvigorating a classic brand, investing enough in individual brands.

This is a daunting task, especially in Oscar de la Renta, which is based on fragrances or accessories rather than high-end ready-to-wear. Perhaps this is why in the world of Oscar de la Renta, customers are not always right, but her opinions are always heard. Nothing is more American than first-class customer service? “So our clothes are still selling,” Garcia said. “It’s rare now.”

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