These big secrets you can't tell you, you don’t know
After I discovered this big (forcing) secret, I could not sleep at night and I could eat it. It does not seem to be meaningful to share with all humanity. Moreover, behind the secret, it also reveals the future of fashion. If you look at your aesthetic beauty, you will pass it on to you.
Let me think about where to start.
Long long ago, how long?
In the first few decades of the 20th century, the core of the fashion of all mankind was the Western world (as if it were not the same now....). Of course, China has also contributed enormously to the fashion of all mankind, and this will be the future.
In the past, the mainstream aesthetics of the West were elegant, colorful, and exquisitely decorated. Although this style ran into styles that did not match the style, such as CHANEL and YSL's men's style, the essence of beauty was the same.
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Chanel
Those old fashion houses have different brand styles. You have tai chi magical powers and I have doggies.
Left: 1958 Lanvin, Right: 1969 Givenchy
Although there is a competitive relationship, everyone belongs to a decent and upright school and maintains a common aesthetic system.
Suddenly one day, this flourishing scene of peace was broken by a mystical power from the East.
who is it? Who is eating a small crisp?
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Yohji Yamamoto and Kawakubo.
Their clothes are black and white, completely ignoring the traditional aesthetics of the Western mainstream, ignoring women's curves, puncturing holes, tearing, and clothes like “garbageâ€. These clothes cannot be described in the traditional sense of beauty.
Kawakubo 1983
Yohji Yamamoto 1983
Later Yohji Yamamoto wrote a book saying "I dropped a bomb." People really did not brag. It was indeed a bomb.
Which western media has won this, the comments are:
"I rely on where the cult comes from, and dare to challenge the traditional aesthetic of the famous and decent."
The delicacies eat more and more, and they would like to eat something else, even though they started to scare them.
After two years, the voice of the Western world gradually changed into:
"I rely on it. It's so exciting, ah ha ha ha ha ha."
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Originally, Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto were very lonely in the world fashion world, but they broke up in Japanese fashion circles and received a lot of disciples, and the core style of disciples also did not belong to the Western traditional aesthetic, followed by the two masters, gradually To form the style of Japanese designers in the eyes of the people of the world.
Junya Watanabe 1998
Well, this is the taste.
The world is divided into two, two camps, well water does not commit the river, the famous decent school and Mingjiao "need to each stand."
This division was simple and crude, but most brands could not escape the two. One is the traditional Western aesthetic, "to the United States to send", and the other is the non-traditional beauty "Mountain School" led by Yohji Yamamoto and Kawakubo in the 1980s. In the following 20 years, both were developing, and they all derived an extremely rich appearance. However, the entire core of the rivers and lakes was decided from the 1980s.
For example, the dark line headed by rick owens, death loyalty powder must say, love beans is also a wonderful ancestor of the ancestors, how can we count these two camps.
Rick owens
Miscellaneous, rickowens founded a brand in 1996, and began to be internationally known in early 2000. Which camp does not mean that his design is affected by or follow suit, but it is an aesthetic tendency. It can be fundamentally divided into “Mountain Schoolâ€.
The most obvious and biggest barrier between the two is that the “Shanchuan School†is far from exquisite hand-made decoration, which is a symbol of traditional luxury. One day, Uncle Yamamoto's black suit embroidered a delicate white lotus flower. It is estimated that you will die of nausea.
Yohji Yamamoto2017 autumn and winter
In addition, many of the later so-called Tide Brands, High Street Brands, and Shi Shuzu should all be Kawakubo Ling and Yohji Yamamoto, but they have advantages and disadvantages in design, some in the skin, some in the bones, and others in the structure, Play something new on the material, such as Undercover.
Undercover2008 autumn and winter
However, more weak ones will only follow the popular tidal brand elements or change the pattern of popular patterns. For example, a large number of stars make a slogan and say that they are making a brand. The latter accounted for the majority of the Tide brand, learned the furring of acupuncture points, and said that they would have a yang yang, and who would they be?
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I will not lift my chestnuts.
however,
It's so exciting. It's finally time to say it.
The trend of the world is divided in time.
The magical 90s have laid a foundation for today's and even future fashion.
Because, in that decade, there were a few wonderful things in the world fashion circle.
The biggest surprise is Martin Margiela.
This is Martin Margiela's spring/summer 1990 series. Does this belong to that faction?
This is Martin Margiela's Spring/Summer 1991 collection. Let's just say that the red Vetements are really like it, huh, huh.
OK, keep watching.
Martin Margiela1994
Martin Margiela1995 autumn and winter
Martin Margiela1996
Martin Margiela1997 autumn and winter
Martin Margiela1998 Spring Summer
Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1999
Traditional school? Yamakawa school?
NO, neither, or all, he basically stood outside the existing fashion system. He can play with structure and play with it. He can also use different technologies to explore materials. He can combine the traditional aesthetic beauty with the beauty of the "mountain style".
It is a pity that such a man of God has no intention of staying in the fashion world for too long. He sings “How lonely is invincibility†and he withdraws from the fashion circle early and goes to art with ease.
In the 1990s, there was a wonderful work -
John Galliano.
The Dior he designed was unconstrained but basically still belonged to the traditional aesthetic system.
But don't forget that he also has a brand named John Galliano under his own name.
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John Galliano2000 autumn and winter series
John Galliano's own brand design can tell that he has the ability to break the two camps, although at that time he has not yet done so completely.
Later, John Galliano's career in Dior stagnated because of his death, and he regretted that he would return to the fashion circle after several years. These old events are not going to happen. What I would like to emphasize is that
The oldest OTB group in Galliano who was “falling†was a man of God.
OTB Group is a group? Generally we mention LVMH, Richemont Group, and Kaiyun Group. Who is OTB?
Under the OTB Group, there are Diesel high street brands, Viktor & Rolf has such a strong artistic brand, and there is Maison Margiela. Maison Margiela is a lot of the 90′s big and wonderful brands that we mentioned earlier, and now it is renamed Maison. Margiela.
The poison of the eyes of the OTB Group’s boss is more poisonous than the lover’s love poison. Just when the news came out that Galliano had to take over Margiela, there were many objections, because many people think that Galliano's design is too prominent, and Margiela is an alternative sense of art.
Christianiano's Christian Dior 2005 Autumn and Winter Collection
There is nothing wrong with this assertion, but it fails to see through the skeleton of his wonderful nature.
Take a look at Galliano's first show at Maison Margiela.
A 21st-century novelty is about to be born and it will be a little bit worse.
In an interview, John Galliano told reporters: "My work at Martin Margiela is not a pure design. I deeply understand the design philosophy and philosophy of Martin Margiela and incorporate it into the design."
Not long ago, Maison Margiela's 2017 Spring/Summer Haute Couture Collection was a show where he really re-established his position in the industry.
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Do not underestimate these messy structures. It blends high street and fashion, blending pop and art.
This dress is the future that can be loaded into the history of fashion.
Both traditional aesthetics, but also "mountain and school".
A wonderful generation has finally been made.
At this moment, I used my mind to pick up the sword of the residual sword and draw the word “the world†on the ground.
The esoteric meaning of the future of fashion is hidden here.
There is no division of factions. In the next decade, the integration of traditional beauty with the mountains and rivers, integration of ancient and modern, integration of high street and fashion, will be a new journey.
Do you think that only Galliano knows this?
I dumped a few pictures and laughed without saying anything.
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