Some techniques for sewing silk fabrics



Among them, plain satin is the most common satin. It is the silk of everyone's impression. The surface is bright and smooth. Silk is more common in plain and twill, as well as silk crepe, silk georgette, silk chiffon and silk double. Palace...etc.  

1
shrink:

All silk fabrics are shrunk before they are made, because the shrinkage rate of silk fabrics varies from 4% to 10%. If there is no pre-shrinkage, after making the clothes, there is no choice but to dry-clean. . Special reminder that silk fabrics must be soaked in cold water.


When shrinking, you can add some silk or softener to the water, which will clean the fabric and reduce the generation of static electricity.


The time to shrink is generally four hours or more, so that the fabric is filled with water, so that it will not shrink again in the future.

2
Crop

Always iron the fabric before cutting. Cut the silk lining in advance and then cut it. It is not recommended that novices start with thin silk fabrics such as silk georgette, silk chiffon, and silk Osage;

3
Sewing

The first is the choice of the needle number. In fact, not all silk fabrics need to be sewn with the finest sewing needle. The needle number can be selected according to the thickness of the fabric and the level of sewing. Generally, the thinner the material is, the finer the sewing needle is.

4
Lining

Two types are commonly used: one is called a water-soluble lining, and the other is a special lining for silk.

Water-soluble lining: As the name implies, water is soluble. Generally, the tension of the fabric is increased during cutting or sewing, which makes cutting and sewing easier.

Silk lining: more commonly used, it is used in many places when making silk clothing. For example, the silk cheongsam waist, the pleats of the chest, and the sewing place generally need to be affixed with silk lining to increase the thickness and toughness of the fabric on the one hand, and prevent the occurrence of wire drawing during the wearing process on the other hand.

Many silk fabrics are inseparable from silk lining in cutting and sewing. For example, silk twill needs special attention when making, can not pull, and pull will cause the fabric to deform, so the silk lining is added to the seams and edges of the fabric to prevent it. Deformation

5
Searing, curling:

Locking and silk fabrics often involve seaming and curling before they are made. The too thin texture often makes many newcomers very headaches. Introducing a personal little experience here is to make two seams.

Use the universal presser foot when sewing for the first time , tiling at the edge of the fabric, and quickly sewing with zigzag stitches;

The second and then change the presser foot curling, because the fabric edge has passed once sewn, tension is greatly improved, so it is much easier curling. It is easy to roll out the beautiful edges according to the method of curling the ordinary thickness fabric.

6
Use the right needle

After repeated trials, the No. 9 German needle is the first choice. Because this needle is made of thin silk material, it will not break the wire, so there will be no spinning phenomenon. In addition, there is no pinhole for making thin knit. These are places that other imported needles cannot reach.

8
Sewing thread is very important

It is very important to make silk and sewing thread. The imported silk thread (polyester filament) of No. 50 and No. 60 is a very good sewing thread. It is much thinner than a general polyester sewing thread, but its tensile strength is very good, and it is not easy to break when sewing.

9
Lower the feed dog

The method of transferring the cloth teeth: taking the old-fashioned machine as an example, it is better to adjust the feed dog to 0.4mm, and the old-fashioned machine feeds the height of the cloth, which should be adjusted according to the fabric.


[Silk surface material]: The height of the feed dog is about 0.4mm

[Medium-thickness fabric]: The height of the feed dog is 0.75mm

[Writing material thick fabric]: the height of the feed dog is 1.2mm

The commonly used height is about 0.7mm


10
Adjust the bobbin pressure of the bobbin case


Counterclockwise is loose, and clockwise is to tighten the tension of the thread.


Hold the thread by hand and gently shake it. The bobbin case will fall slowly. This is more appropriate.

Finally, adjust the tension of the lower line to make the bottom and upper line stitches consistent. When sewing, the needle code should not be too small. Use the hand-drawn flat piece to transport the piece with the delivery teeth.





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